Supply List

Realistic Fabric Portraits

Marilyn Belford, Instructor

Visit the gallery on my Web site and you will see that the quilters who claim that they cannot draw really can make the quilt they desire.  More student quilts in the Quilt U Gallery.  Below, you can see the full portrait of Rundy which won First Place in the Pictorial category at AQS in Paducah, KY in 2006.

SUPPLIES

Note:  The transparency film can be purchased at any copy center or at an office supply or school supply store.  Most copy centers or public libraries will rent an overhead projector to you.  If you have a slide, you can use a slide projector.

If neither is available, just proceed with the rest of the supplies.  There will be instructions during the class on for making a light box from a window.  You can find other supplies at hobby or art supply shops.  A computer with scanner and a program like Adobe Photoshop is useful, but copy centers can usually supply you with the kind of images described in the step-by-step instructions.


My Parents by Marilyn Belford

Fabric

You will need lots of assorted fabric pieces, skin tones and prints that read as a solid from a few feet away.  Light mauves, light olives for shadows.  Batiks that shift colors are good, as well as marbleized fabric, and fossil ferns.

These fabrics for faces are somewhat magnified so that you can see the print.  Note the various textures and tones.  You will be doing a lot of fussy cutting.  For example, using fabric that shifts from a natural skin tone to an olive hue is good for shading in such areas as under the eye.


Assorted fabric for faces

These fabrics are good for hair, including cat fur.  The first time I used cat fur for hair I had to close my eyes before I could cut the cute kitty cat into smithereens.  Patterns of wood grain are marvelous, as are marbelized swirls.  The fabrics on the right might prove nice for curls.


Fabric assortment for hair

A Note on Threads

There is a vast selection of thread types and sizes in the market place.  There is cotton, rayon, polyester, silk, monofilament and metallic.  Choose thread to serve specific purposes.  Each type has distinct physical properties and characteristics.  Polyester, for example, retains its round shape at all times, whereas cotton, rayon and silk tend to lie flatter on the fabric.  I would choose the latter for shading and the polyester for distinctive outlining, as it will be more raised.

Thread size plays an important role in your choice of thread.  The standard size used in regular sewing is usually 40 wt, sometimes 50 wt.  Machine embroidery uses 60 wt and 50 wt.  Heavy-duty sewing uses number 30.  Sometimes you will see the thread size shown as 50/2.  The top number is the size and the bottom number is the ply (the number of filaments wound together).  The larger the size number the finer the thread.

For shading, I like to use number 60 (fine).  With the finer thread, I can go over the same area with a second color (creating a blend) without adding bulk or stiffness.  However, color choice is my prime consideration, and if I cannot find the exact color I want in the finer thread, I will use any weight thread with the desired color.  Just adjust the stitches accordingly.

Try to match the colors closely to the tones in the fabric you selected for the skin, hair, eyes and mouth.  You might also want some colors that may be used to highlight something, like light shining on hair (usually a slightly lighter hue than the original), or a deeper color than the fabric to emphasize a shadow.

OUTLINE

Lesson One

Lesson Two

Lesson Three

Lesson Four

Lesson Five

If you have a question about items on this list, check the Class Supply Glossary in the Library for generic descriptions of products that may be sold under various names in different countries.  The Library also contains a link to online Class Supply Sources.

If you have trouble finding your supplies locally, many of our items are available online at Big Horn Quilts.  The notions are on a special page for your convenience. 


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